From: Jim Choate <ravage@ssz.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 13:06:46 +0800
To: cypherpunks@ssz.com (Cypherpunks Distributed Remailer)
Subject: Re: Lock and Load (fwd)
Message-ID: <199712230524.XAA22670@einstein.ssz.com>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text



Forwarded message:

> From: "Michael H. Warfield" <mhw@wittsend.com>
> Subject: Re: Lock and Load (fwd)
> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 23:50:36 -0500 (EST)

> This is what "the experts" have claimed.  Can't personally claimed to have
> read it in any specific manual myself.

I've seen a couple and there are *lots* of references to the various manuals
(and I think every wanna be professional soldier in the last 500 years has
written one at some point) in the various readings I do studying tactical
combat techniques but that doesn't make me an expert by any stretch
of the imagination. The very fact that there are so many and so many were
never accepted (quality?) means even they are by no means a final reference.
I would like to know if there were exceptions or even who wrote the first
manual with 'lock and load'...

> This friend happened to have a fire in his house about five years ago.

Yuck, I had a house fire going on 3 years ago now. Every time I smell a
bar-b-q pit I remember it...;(

> his journey into discovering the nature of life beyond.  I personally would
> not recommend subjecting such substances to such abuses of heat and pressure,
> but some are known to get away with it and still live to tell the tale.

I've seen that sort of behaviour as well. I've tried to demonstrate the pipe
model and truth be told, it works only about 9 out of 10 times. Black powder
just ain't that unstable.

> > You can buy working 'Brown Bessie' models at most any gun or decent hobby
> > store. They're cheap (around $100 last time I looked), loud, smelly, and
> > loads of fun...
> 
> 	I personally like the Kentucky Longs you can build from kits.  Will
> throw and impressive 1/4" lead ball and leave one hell of an impression when
> it arrives...

Agreed...

Merry Christmas!


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